Vancouver, a large coastal seaport city, is located in southwestern British Columbia in Canada. Still a city of new immigrants, you'll hear a dozen different languages if you wonder the streets of Vancouver. The city also attracts young professionals and artists from the eastern provinces who come here to enjoy its recreation and laid-back sophistication.

There aren't many cities in the world that offer Vancouver's combination of big-city lifestyle and outdoor fun in such cheek-by-jowl proximity. Ski in the morning, sail in the afternoon and still make it back to town in time for a cocktail or three.

Vancouver has one of the mildest climates in the country. It rarely snows in the city, and when it does, for maybe a week or two over winter, it tends to melt quickly or get washed away by the rain. Conversely, it seldom gets oppressively hot. What Vancouver is guaranteed to get - by the bucket load - is wet. The surrounding mountains, which on a clear day look close enough to touch, disappear completely when the clouds settle in and the rain pours down, which can be for days on end.

The best time to visit is from early June to early October, when there's less rain, temperatures are warm, daylight hours are long and the transportation routes are open. May to September are good times for whale-watching. The winter ski season peaks in January and February, but at resorts like Whistler the slopes are open year-round.

Guide dogs may legally be brought into restaurants, hotels and other businesses. Many public service phone numbers and some payphones are adapted for the hearing impaired. About 90% of downtown's sidewalks have sloping ramps and most public buildings are wheelchair accessible. There is a directory published by the Canadian Paraplegic Association of BC, called Accessible Vancouver. This lists accessible hotels, museums and facilities (tel: 604 324 3611; www.canparaplegic.org/bc). Freedom Rentals (tel: 604 952 4499; www.wheelchairvanren tals.com) provides lift-equipped vans.

The government lists accessible transport throughout Canada at www.accesstotravel.gc.ca online. TransLink runs lift-equipped buses on more than half its routes; all buses should be accessible by 2007. All SkyTrain stations, except Granville, are wheelchair accessible; Granville should be accessible by late 2006. TransLink's HandyDART (tel: 604 453 4634) vans offer custom door-to-door service; users need a HandyPass, which usually takes three days to process. VIA Rail and long-distance bus companies can accommodate wheelchairs if given sufficient advance notice. You can apply for disabled parking permits (C$15:00) via SPARC BC (tel: 604 718 7744; www.sparc.bc.ca). Other helpful resources include: BC Coalition of People with Disabilities (tel: 604 875 0188, TDD 604 875 8835; www.bccpd.bc.ca); Canadian National Institute for the Blind (tel: 604 431 2121; www.cnib.ca); Mobility International USA (tel: 541 343 1284; www.miusa.org) and Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (tel: 212 447 7284; www.sath.org).

Taking in some First Nations art and culture is a good way to begin a tour through Vancouver. Continue through its many green spaces, its countercultural and cosmopolitan neighbourhoods, and Gastown, the city's original settlement, now transformed into a gussied-up historical quarter.

BC Place Stadium
Address: 777 Pacific Blvd, Yaletown
Home of the BC Lions Canadian Football League team, this 60,000-seat Teflon-domed sports stadium was rumored to be on its last legs until it was named as a 2010 Winter Olympics venue and resuscitated with a makeover. The dome's quilted appearance is due to the crisscrossing steel wires holding down the air-supported roof - it deflated spectacularly in 2007 and had to be given the kiss of life by engineers. The stadium is also used for rock concerts and shows that range from indoor fairs to an annual food festival, and there's a popular tour offering a glimpse behind the scenes.
Web: www.bcplacestadium.com

BC Sports Hall of Fame & Museum
Address: Gate A, BC Place Stadium, Yaletown
Located inside BC Place Stadium, the small but perfectly formed Sports Hall of Fame showcases top BC athletes, both amateur and professional, with special galleries devoted to each decade in sports. There's a surprising wealth of medals, trophies and sporting memorabilia on display and there are tons of hands-on activities and games to tire the kids out. Check out the stirring exhibits on Terry Fox and his 'Marathon of Hope' run across Canada, plus Rick Hanson and his 'Man-in-Motion' worldwide wheelchair journey.
Web: www.bcsportshalloffame.com

Bloedel Floral Conservatory
Address: Fairview
Cresting the hill in Queen Elizabeth Park, this popular Plexiglas conservatory - an ideal indoor warm-up spot on a rainy day - is the area's green-fingered centerpiece. It has three climate-controlled zones with 400 plant species, dozens of koi carp and 100 free-flying tropical birds - expect Charlie the cockatiel to harangue you with his verbal dexterity. Ask at the front desk for a free brochure to help you identify the exotic flora and fauna. Locals like to get married here, presumably because it's cheaper than flying to Hawaii.
Web: vancouver.ca/parks

Brockton Point
Address: Stanley Park
The name refers to the eastern end of the park as well as the eastern tip of the peninsula. It contains Brockton Oval playing field and cricket pitch, a colorful clutch of totem poles from several different First Nations people, and the Nine O'Clock Gun on Hallelujah Point - an electrically fired cannon that sounds at 21:00 nightly and was originally used by ships' captains to set their chronometers. The squat Brockton Point Lighthouse was completed in 1915. It's not too far from here to the summertime artist market, where you can pick up a painterly souvenir of your visit.

Canada Place
Tel: (604) 647 7390 (info)
Address: north foot of Howe St, Downtown
Built for Expo '86, this iconic, postcard-friendly landmark is shaped like a series of sails that jut into the sky over the harbor. Now a cruise-ship terminal and convention center, it's also a pier where you can stroll out over the waterfront, watch the splashing floatplanes and catch some spectacular sea-to-mountain views. If it's raining, duck inside for the CN IMAX Theatre and the Port Authority Interpretation Centre, a hands-on, kid-friendly showcase illuminating the city's maritime trade.
Web: www.canadaplace.ca

Capilano Salmon Hatchery
Address: 4500 Capilano Park Rd, Greater Vancouver
Located in Capilano River Regional Park, about 2km north of the Capilano Suspension Bridge, this fish farm is run by the Federal Department of Fisheries and Oceans to protect valuable Coho, Chinook and Steelhead salmon stocks. Visit from July to November - October, when the Chinooks return, is the optimum month - and you'll catch adult salmon swimming through fish ladders past the rapids in a heroic effort to reach their spawning grounds upstream, after which they promptly die in a scripted lifecycle that must have been written by Samuel Beckett. Eye-level tanks display the creatures and enlightening exhibits help explain the entire mysterious process.

Capilano Suspension Bridge
Address: 3735 Capilano Rd, Greater Vancouver
As you walk gingerly out on to the world's longest (140m) and highest (70m) suspension bridge, swaying gently over the roiling waters of tree-lined Capilano Canyon, remember that the thick steel cables you are gripping are safely embedded in huge concrete blocks on either side. The region's most popular attraction - hence the summertime crowds and relentless tour buses - the grounds here also include rainforest walks, totem poles and a swinging network of smaller bridges strung between the trees. Drop by the souvenir shop, one of BC's biggest, for First Nations artwork and 'moose dropping' choccies.
Web: www.capbridge.com

Chinese Cultural Centre Museum & Archives
Address: 555 Columbia St, Chinatown
Check out this museum for a deeper understanding of the often-turbulent history of Vancouver's Chinese immigrants. Changing exhibits are on the main floor, while the 2nd floor's permanent collection highlights Gold Rush history and Chinatown settlement. It also houses the Military Museum, showcasing the sometimes unsung role of Chinese-Canadian soldiers in both world wars.
Web: www.cccvan.com

Christ Church Cathedral
Address: 690 Burrard St, Downtown
Completed in 1895 and designated as a cathedral in 1929, the biggest and best Gothic-style church in the city is nestled incongruously among Vancouver's looming glass towers. Undergoing extensive renovations in recent years, it's a busy site and is home to a wide range of cultural events, including regular choir and chamber music recitals and the occasional Shakespeare reading. Self-guided tours of the 32 stained-glass windows are available, but if you're short of time just head down to the basement for the highlight: a colorful William Morris beauty. It's a working church, so visiting hours may be cut when services are scheduled.
Web: www.cathedral.vancouver.bc.ca

Coal Harbour Seawalk
Address: northeast foot of Thurlow St, West End
This pathway winds along the waterfront for 2km or so before hooking up with the Stanley Park seawall. A modern-day boardwalk, it combines a background of glassy high-rises with twinkling sea and mountain vistas, bobbing sailboats and the dramatic rise and fall of buzzing floatplanes.

Contemporary Art Gallery
Address: 555 Nelson St, Downtown
Originally the Greater Vancouver Artists' Gallery, this small, off-the-beaten-path art space transformed itself into an independent gallery in 1996, moving to a crisp, purpose-built facility in 2001. It focuses on a wide range of modern art, but photography is particularly well represented here. Exhibitions are ever-changing and include local and international artists - check the gallery's website for artist events and exhibition openings.
Web: www.contemporaryartgallery.ca

Cypress Provincial Park
Address: Cypress Bowl Rd, Greater Vancouver
Around 8km north of West Van via Hwy 99, Cypress offers some great summertime hiking, including the Baden-Powell, Yew Lake and Howe Sound Crest trails, which plunge through forests of cedar, yellow cypress and Douglas fir and wind past little lakes and alpine meadows. In winter, the park's Cypress Mountain resort area makes this one of the city's favorite snowbound playgrounds.
Web: www.bcparks.ca

Downtown Historic Railway
Address: near cnr W 2nd Ave & Old Bridge St, below Granville Bridge, Granville Island
This beautifully restored, clackety old streetcar hits the ancient tracks from Granville Island to Science World during a smile-inducing 15-minute journey. The railway used to be part of the Vancouver tramcar system, and today it's still operated by the city's Engineering Services department - you'll see retired uniformed volunteers, who used to work on the old cars when they were in full service, staffing the line.
Web: www.trams.bc.ca

Dr Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden & Park
Tel: (604) 662 3207 (info)
Address: 578 Carrall St, Chinatown
A tranquil break from clamorous Chinatown, this intimate 'garden of ease' exhibits the Taoist symbolism behind the placing of gnarled pine trees, winding covered pathways and ancient limestone formations. Entry includes a fascinating 45-minute guided tour - look out for the lazy turtles bobbing in the jade-colored water - where you'll learn that everything in the garden reflects balance and harmony, and the placement of each item has a considered purpose. Check the garden's website for its summer schedule of Friday evening concerts. Adjacent is the free-entry Dr Sun Yat-Sen Park. Dowdier than its neighbor, it's still a pleasant oasis of whispering grasses, a large fishpond and a small pagoda.
Web: www.vancouverchinesegarden.com

Emily Carr Institute of Art & Design
Address: 1399 Johnston St, Granville Island
Named after BC's most famous historic painter, the institute is well regarded for its visual- and media-arts programs. Housed in a corrugated metal factory building near a cement plant, it has a gritty, angst-worthy vibe that matches that of its young students. The school presents a range of free exhibits in its three galleries: two showcase the work of the school's up-and-coming students, while the Charles H Scott Gallery hosts shows by professional artists. If you're an art lover, you'll also enjoy the school's excellent arty bookstore.
Web: www.eciad.ca

English Bay Beach
Address: southwest foot of Davie St, West End
Whether it's a languid early evening in August with buskers, sunbathers and volleyballers sharing the beach, or a cold, blustery day in November with just you and a dog-walker staring at the waves, English Bay is a top West End highlight. A great place to picnic, gaze at the freighters moored offshore and view golden sunsets - Stanley Park beckons next door if you fancy adding a seawall hike - this is also the home of the annual Celebration of Light fireworks festival . Check out the 6m stone Inukshuk here; an Inuit sign of welcome, it's been co-opted as a symbol for the 2010 Winter Olympics.

George C Reifel Migratory Bird Sanctuary
Address: 5191 Robertson Rd, Delta, Greater Vancouver
Across the South Arm of the Fraser River, this smashing 300-hectare sanctuary attracts feathered fowl and curious visitors in almost equal measure. Bald eagles, Siberian swans, peregrine falcons, blue herons and 264 other species choose to roost here and there are plenty of opportunities for viewing.
Web: www.reifelbirdsanctuary.com

Gm Place
Address: 800 Griffiths Way, Downtown
Also known as 'the Garage,' the newer of Vancouver's two downtown stadiums hosts the Vancouver Canucks of the National Hockey League. Game nights, when the 20,000-capacity venue heaves with fervent fans, are the city's most exciting sporting events - you'll enjoy the atmosphere even if the rules are a mystery.
Web: www.generalmotorsplace.com

Granville Island Brewing
Address: 1441 Cartwright St, Granville Island
Canada's oldest microbrewery offers half-hour tours where the smiling guides will walk you through the tiny brewing room (production has mostly shifted to larger premises) before depositing you in the Taproom for samples, including Cypress Honey Lager and the recommended Kitsilano Maple Cream Ale. You'll spot many of these brews in bars and restaurants around the city. You can also buy some takeout in the adjoining store - look out for any seasonal or special-batch tipples that might be worth a try.
Web: www.gib.ca

Granville Island Public Market
Address: Johnston St, near cnr of Duranleau St, Granville Island
A multisensory deli specialising in gourmet fish, cheese, fruit and bakery treats, the covered market is a chatty, visceral place to mix with the locals. It's a great place to pick up picnic fixings (Vanier Park is a short seawall stroll away if you're looking for a spot) and buskers are a regular fixture around the market's exterior. There's a small but good international food court here (eat lunch early or late to avoid the rush) as well as a regular clutch of arts and crafts stalls. Consider a guided foodie tour of the market. Web: www.granvilleisland.com

Grouse Mountain
Address: 236 from Lonsdale Quay, Greater Vancouver
Calling itself the 'Peak of Vancouver,' this mountaintop perch offers smashing views of the downtown towers, shimmering in the water below you. In summer, Skyride gondola passengers can access restaurants, lumberjack shows, alpine hiking trails and a grizzly bear refuge. You can also avoid the gondola and harden your calf muscles on the Grouse Grind, a steep 2.9km wilderness trek that takes most people around 90 minutes. In winter, Grouse becomes the locals' favorite snowy playground.
Web: www.grousemountain.com

Gulf of Georgia Cannery National Historic Site
Address: 12138 4th Ave, Steveston
Once you've perused the boats hawking the day's fresh catch, Steveston's main attraction is the old-school cannery, now transformed into an excellent industrial heritage museum that explores the sights and sounds (and smells) of the region's bygone era of labour-intensive fish processing.
Web: www.gulfofgeorgiacannery.com

Horseshoe Bay
Address: Greater Vancouver
The small coastal community of Horseshoe Bay marks the end of West Vancouver and the start of trips to Whistler, via the Sea to Sky Hwy (Hwy 99), or Vancouver Island, Bowen Island and the Sunshine Coast via the BC Ferries network. It's a pretty village, with great views across the bay and up Howe Sound to distant glacial peaks. Cutesy places to eat and shop line the waterfront on Bay St, near the marina, where you can also take a whale-watching boat trek with Sewell's Sea Safari.

Hr Macmillan Space Centre
Address: 1100 Chestnut St, Kitsilano
Popular with packs of marauding school kids - expect to have to elbow them out of the way to push the flashing buttons - this high-tech science center illuminates the eye-opening world of space. There's plenty of fun to be had battling aliens, designing a spacecraft or strapping yourself in for a simulator ride to Mars, and there are also movie presentations on all manner of spacey themes.
Web: www.hrmacmillanspacecentre.com

International Buddhist Temple
Address: 9160 Steveston Hwy, Greater Vancouver
Reflecting the classical architecture of Beijing's Forbidden City, a highlight of this fascinating, two-tiered temple complex (also known as Kuan Yin Temple) is its sumptuous Gracious Hall, complete with deep-red exterior walls and a gently flaring orange porcelain roof. Check out the colorful 100m Buddha mural and the golden, multi-armed Bodhisattva figure here. The surrounding landscaped garden with its sculptures and bonsai trees is another highlight, but save time for a lip-smacking veggie lunch in the ground-floor cafeteria. You don't have to be a Buddhist to visit and the monks are highly welcoming if you just want to have a look around.
Web: www.buddhisttemple.ca

Jericho Beach
Address: north foot of Alma St, Kitsilano
An activity-lovers idyll - Jericho is also great if you just want to putter along the beach, clamber over driftwood logs and catch stunning panoramic vistas of downtown Vancouver sandwiched between the water and the looming North Shore mountains. It's also popular with sunset fans.

Kitsilano Beach
Address: cnr Cornwall Ave & Arbutus St, Kitsilano
Mega-popular Kits Beach faces English Bay and has a strong claim to being the city's favorite summer hangout. The wide, sandy expanse flanking the water here attracts buff Frisbee tossers and giggling volleyball players, as well as those who just like to preen while they're catching the rays.

Lighthouse Park
Address: cnr Beacon Lane & Marine Dr, Greater Vancouver
Some of the region's oldest and most spectacular trees live within this accessible 75-hectare park, including a rare stand of original coastal forest and plenty of those gnarly, copper-trunked arbutus trees. It's ideal for a romantic picnic, and you'll find plenty of doe-eyed couples hogging the grass here.

Lonsdale Quay
Address: 123 Carrie Cates Court, Greater Vancouver
As well as being a transportation hub - this is where the SeaBus from downtown docks and you pick up transit buses to Capilano, Grouse and beyond - this waterfront facility built for Expo '86 houses a colorful indoor market. The region's second-best market (after Granville Island), this one is a popular spot for fresh fruit and glassy-eyed whole fish on the main floor and books and clothing on the 2nd floor. There's also a cheap-and-cheerful food court and a couple of sit-down restaurants. It's a nice afternoon jaunt from the city, with many visitors scooping up an ice cream and lingering over the boardwalk vistas of downtown.

Lost Lagoon
Address: Stanley Park
This area near the park's entrance was originally an extension of Coal Harbour, but by 1916 the bridge was replaced with a causeway, and in 1922 the new body of water was named, transforming itself into a freshwater lake a few years later. Today it's a wild-bird sanctuary and its perimeter path makes for a wonderful nature-bound walk.

Lumberman's Arch
Address: Stanley Park
Once the site of a Coast Salish village, Lumberman's Arch received its modern name from the beefy, rough-hewn archway donated by the Lumberman's and Shingleman's Society. If your kids have overheated themselves by running wild in the sun, cool them off here at the giggle-inducing seafront Water Park.

Lynn Canyon Park
Address: Peters Rd, Greater Vancouver
Set amid a dense bristling of ancient trees, the main feature of this provincial park is its swinging suspension bridge, a free alternative to Capilano. Not quite as long or high as its tourist-magnet rival, it provokes the same jelly-legged reaction as you sway over the river 50m below - and it's also far less crowded or commercialized. There are hiking trails, swimming areas and picnic spots around the park to keep you busy once you've done the bridge. The free-entry Ecology Centre houses interesting displays on the area's rich biodiversity, complete with dioramas and video presentations.

Marine Building
Address: 355 Burrard St, Downtown
Vancouver's most romantic old-school tower block is an evocative reminder of what skyscrapers used to look like before bland concrete and faceless glass caught the eye of area developers. A graceful, 22-story, Art Deco tribute to the city's maritime past, its grand entranceway resembles a ship's prow while a salty frieze of waves, marine flora and sea horses wraps around the building's exterior.

Miniature Railway & Children's Farmyard
Address: Stanley Park
Near the aquarium, these twin, kid-friendly attractions are a big draw in summer. The farmyard allows youngsters to interact with llamas, sheep, goats, cows, hens and other small animals in a way that will make you wonder why you bother spending money on much pricier zoos back home. In contrast, the railway offers a 15-minute train ride that kids of all ages can enjoy.

Model Trains Museum & Model Ships Museum
Tel: (604) 683 1939 (info)
Address: 1502 Duranleau St, Granville Island
Of the twin museums discreetly housed here under one roof, the train museum wins hands down. With one of the world's largest toy locomotive collections - there are so many that only a lucky few get to rattle around the giant BC railway layout - it will be rare if you don't spot a reminder or two from your childhood.

Mt Seymour Provincial Park
Address: 1700 Mt Seymour Rd, Great Vancouver
A popular, rustic retreat from the downtown clamour, this giant, tree-lined park is suffused with more than a dozen summertime hiking trails that suit walkers of most abilities (the easiest path is the 2km Goldie Lake Trail). Many trails wind past lakes and centuries-old Douglas firs and offer a true break from the city. This is also one of the city's three main winter playgrounds.
Web: www.bcparks.ca

Museum of Anthropology
Address: 6393 NW Marine Dr, University of BCv With Canada's best display of northwest-coast First Nations artifacts in a spectacular waterfront setting, this is Vancouver's best museum. The totem poles alone - displayed against a wall of glass overlooking the coastline - are worth the admission. As of 2 September, 2008, the Museum of Anthropology will be closed for renovations. It is scheduled to reopen on 3 March, 2009. Public programs will continue to be held offsite - check their website for details.
Web: www.moa.ubc.ca

Nitobe Memorial Garden
Tel: (604) 8226038 (info)
Address: 1903 West Mall, University of BC
This lovely garden is a perfect example of Japan's symbolic horticultural art form. Aside from some traffic noise, it's a tranquil retreat, ideal for quiet meditation. Considered one of North America's most authentic Japanese gardens, it's divided into a Tea Garden - complete with ceremonial teahouse - and a Stroll Garden, where the layout reflects a symbolic journey through life following the principles of yin and yang.
Web: www.nitobe.org

Pacific Spirit Regional Park
Address: cnr Blanca St & W 16th Ave, University of BC
This stunning 763-hectare park - the city's largest - cuts a wide swathe across the peninsula. Stretching from Burrard Inlet on one side to the North Arm of the Fraser River on the other, it's a green buffer zone between the campus and the city. A smashing spot to hug some trees and explore (there are 54km of walking, jogging and cycling trails) - you'll marvel at the giant cedars and firs that will be towering over you here.

Pendulum Gallery
Address: 885 W Georgia St, Downtown
A creative use for the cavernous atrium of the city's main HSBC Bank Building - you'll be overlooking the cash machines and smiling bank tellers - this gallery offers an ever-changing roster of temporary exhibitions. It's mostly new art, and can range from striking paintings to challenging photographs and quirky arts and crafts.

Prospect Point
Address: Stanley Park
One of Vancouver's most glorious lookouts, this lofty spot is located at the park's northern tip. In summer you'll be jostling for elbow room with the tour groups as you angle for a view of the passing cruise ships - heading down the steep stairs to the viewing platform usually shakes some of them off.Look out for scavenging raccoons here and remember that it's never a good idea to try to pet these semi-tame, rabies-carrying critters.

Queen Elizabeth Park
Address: Cambie
The city's highest point - it's 167m above sea level and has smashing views of the mountain-framed downtown skyscrapers - this 52-hectare park claims to house specimens of every tree native to Canada (look out for the white-flowered dogwood, BC's floral emblem). Sports fields, manicured lawns, formal gardens and pitch-and-putt golf keep the locals happy, and you'll likely see wide-eyed wedding couples posing for their photos.
Web: vancouver.ca/parks

Robson Street
Address: btwn Thurlow & Denman Sts, West End
Locals, international tourists and recent immigrants - count the number of accents you catch as you stroll along here - throng the hotels, eateries and shops of Robson St, Vancouver's de facto promenade. While most shops are of the ubiquitous chain-store variety, it's also worth heading to the Stanley Park end of the strip, where you'll find a modern 'mini-Asia' of subterranean internet cafés, hole-in-the-wall noodle eateries and discreet karaoke bars populated by homesick Japanese and Korean language students. It's a great area for a cheap-and-cheerful, authentically south Asian lunch.

Roedde House Museum & Barclay Heritage Square
Address: 1415 Barclay St, West End
For a glimpse of what pioneer-town Vancouver looked like before the glass towers, drop by this handsome 1893 Queen Anne-style mansion, now a lovingly preserved museum. Designed by infamous BC architect Francis Rattenbury, the house is packed with period antiques and the surrounding gardens planted in period style. Sunday entry, including tea and cookies in the garden, costs around C$1 extra.
Web: www.roeddehouse.org

Roundhouse Community Arts & Recreation Centre
Address: 181 Roundhouse Mews, cnr Davie St & Pacific Blvd, Yaletown
Those interested in the history of the Canadian Pacific Railway should visit the Roundhouse, formerly a CPR repair shed. It now houses handsome Engine No 374 (www.wcra.org/engine374), which brought the first passenger train into the city in 1887. Yaletown was once a busy locomotive hub, and rail lines are still embedded in the streets around the area.
Web: www.roundhouse.ca

Science World & Alcan Omnimax Theatre
Address: 1455 Quebec St, Chinatown
Nestled under the city's gleaming geodesic dome (or 'silver golf ball' as the locals often call it) are two levels of hands-on science, technology and natural-history exhibits aimed at satisfying the most enquiring of minds. It's an ideal place to bring kids - the gallery that explores sustainability issues is recommended, along with the water course of ball cannons and bridges. Expect to spend at least a few hours here. Level 3 holds the 400-seat Omnimax Theatre (tickets around C$10 ), showing large-format documentary movies to those who need a sit down.
Web: www.scienceworld.bc.ca

Seawall Promenade
Address: Stanley Park
The 9km (5mi) Seawall Promenade - ideal for cycling, walking, jogging and in-line skating - hugs Stanley Park's shoreline. Keep in mind that cyclists and skaters, like vehicles, must travel counterclockwise around the park, and it can get crowded on weekends.

Second Beach & Third Beach
Address: Stanley Park
Second Beach is an ever-busy, family-friendly area on the park's western side, with a large, grassy playground, a greasy-spoon snack bar that also serves ice cream, and the Stanley Park Pitch & Putt golf course. Its main attraction, though, is the seasonal outdoor swimming pool that sits on the waterfront overlooking the distant UBC peninsula.

Sikh Temple
Address: 8000 Ross St, Soma
Not in the market, but close enough to be worth the extra trip, is the Sikh Temple. Designed by Arthur Erickson, the building has the hallmarks of traditional Indian architecture. Visitors are welcome to look inside as long as they follow the prescribed customs: women need to bring a scarf to cover their head, and you'll be asked to leave your shoes at the entrance. It's off SE Marine Dr, near Knight St.

Spanish Banks
Address: cnr NW Marine Dr & Blanca St, University of BC
There are some stunning views from this beach on the north side of the peninsula: you can wave at the giant freighters moored in Burrard Inlet or just sit back and watch the city and distant West Vancouver slowly fade in the setting sun. Recalling the early arrival of Spanish explorers in the region, the British - who arrived later but eventually won control of the area - named the waterfront after them.

Steam Clock
Address: cnr Water & Cambie Sts, Gastown
The much ballyhooed steam clock halfway along Water St is a silly little landmark, though its charm is that it's the only one of its kind in the world. Misleadingly historic looking, it was built in 1977 to resemble London's Big Ben. Join the camera-wielding hordes waiting for it to belch steam and sound the quarter-hour like a train whistle, but keep this secret to yourself: the 'steam clock' is actually powered by electricity. Check out its clunking ball bearings and interior workings through the side glass panels.

Sunset Beach
Address: along Beach Ave, west of Burrard Bridge, West End
A chain of small, sandy beaches running along the north side of False Creek, this is where West Enders come to hang out and catch some rays, many of them lounging on the grassy banks overlooking the waterfront. The walking, cycling and blading trail here - it links to the Stanley Park seawall trail if you want extend your trek - is always packed in summer, often with members of the local gay community checking each other out.

UBC Botanical Garden
Address: 6804 SW Marine Dr, University of BC
A haven for green-fingered visitors, this 10,000-tree, 28-hectare plot near the corner of West 16th Ave comprises eight separate gardens, including Canada's largest collection of rhododendrons (plus some lovely blue poppies), a 16th-century-style apothecary garden and a winter garden of plants that bloom outside springtime.
Web: www.ubcbotanicalgarden.org

University Town
Address: University of BC
Although surrounded by undeveloped waterfront and enjoying a verdant, tree-lined location, the UBC campus - complete with 44,000 students - is a bustling, building-packed minicity. If you have the time, it's worth a day out from downtown since there's plenty to do here and lots of easy-to-find lunch and coffee spots. Consider a free walking tour to get your bearings. If you fancy a swim, the UBC Aquatic Centre is open to the public. The free-entry Belkin Gallery, which focuses on contemporary art, and the popular Chan Centre concert venue will keep visiting arties occupied.
Web: www.ubc.ca

Vancouver Aquarium
Address: Stanley Park
Stanley Park's biggest draw, the aquarium is home to 9000 water-loving creatures - including sharks, dolphins, Amazonian caimans and a somewhat shy octopus. There's also a small, walk-through rainforest area full of birds, butterflies and turtles. Check out the iridescent jellyfish tank and the two sea otters that eat the way everyone should: lying on their backs using their chests as plates.
Web: www.vanaqua.org

Vancouver Art Gallery
Tel: (604) 662 4700 (info)
Address: 750 Hornby St, Downtown
Once a disappointing regional gallery with nothing more than a clutch of Emily Carr canvases to recommend it, the VAG - housed in an old courthouse but rumored to be moving to a new downtown location soon - has dramatically transformed in recent years, becoming a vital part of the city's cultural scene.
Web: www.vanartgallery.bc.ca

Vancouver Lookout
Tel: (604) 689 0421 (info)
Address: 555 W Hastings St, Downtown
Expect your lurching stomach to make a bid for freedom as one of the two glass elevators here whisks you 169m to the apex of this needle-like viewing area. Once up top, there's not much to do but wander around and check out the truly awesome 360-degree vistas of city, sea and mountain panoramas unfurling around you.
Web: www.vancouverlookout.com

Vancouver Maritime Museum
Address: 1905 Ogden Ave, Kitsilano
The final member of the triumvirate - it's a five-minute walk west of the Vancouver Museum - this library-quiet attraction combines dozens of intricate model ships with some detailed recreated boat sections and a few historic vessels. The main draw is the St Roch, a 1928 Royal Canadian Mounted Police Arctic patrol sailing ship that was the first vessel to navigate the legendary Northwest Passage in both directions.
Web: www.vancouvermaritimemuseum.com

Vancouver Museum
Tel: (604) 7364431 (info)
Address: 1100 Chestnut St, Kitsilano
One of the three well-established educational attractions clustered together in Vanier Park, the Vancouver Museum recounts both distant and recent city history. It includes some colorful displays on 1950s pop culture and 1960s hippy counterculture - a reminder that Kits was once the grass-smoking center of Vancouver's flower-power movement. Permanent exhibits include a look at the everyday life of First Nations people; passenger quarters on a groaning life-sized immigrant ship; and a full-scale sawmill wheel. The temporary exhibits are usually intriguing - check the museum's website to see what's coming up.
Web: www.vanmuseum.bc.ca

Vancouver Police Centennial Museum
Address: 240 E Cordova St, Gastown
Colorfully charting the city's murky criminal past, displays at this excellent little museum include an autopsy room with pieces of damaged body parts posted on the wall (note the brain with a .22 caliber bullet in it) and an exhibit describing how to determine a corpse's age via insects (blowflies appear in 15 days, cheese-skippers in 40 days). Visitors can see what a 1oz lump of heroin looks like or peruse bad-ass weaponry, including a gangster-era Thompson submachine gun. Also consider the gripping Sins of the City walking tour (around C$12 ), which escorts curious visitors through the dodgy Downtown Eastside's eye-popping vice and crime-fighting history.
Web: www.vancouverpolicemuseum.ca

Vancouver Public Library
Address: 350 W Georgia St, Downtown
This spectacular, Roman Colosseum-like building must be a temple to the great god of libraries. If not, it's certainly one of the world's most magnificent public library facilities. Built in 1995, it contains 1.2 million books and other items spread out over seven levels, all of them seemingly populated by language students silently learning English from textbooks. The awesome glass atrium curving around the entrance is filled with tables and cafés, making it an ideal spot to hang out on a rainy day and check your home-country newspapers (found on level five). If you're traveling with kids, the library's downstairs children's section is tons of fun.
Web: www.vpl.ca

Vandusen Botanical Garden
Address: 5251 Oak St, Greater Vancouver
Vancouver's favorite ornamental green space, this 22-hectare idyll is a web of paths weaving through 40 small, specialized gardens: the Rhododendron Walk blazes with color in spring, while the nearby Korean Pavilion is a focal point for a fascinating Asian plant collection. There's also a fun Elizabethan maze, walled by 1000 pyramidal cedars, and an intriguing menagerie of marble sculptures.
Web: www.vandusengarden.org

Vanier Park
Address: west of Burrard Bridge, Kitsilano
Winding around Kitsilano Point and eventually connecting with Kits Beach, waterfront Vanier Park is more a host site than a destination. Home to three museums, it's also the evocative venue for the tents of the annual Vancouver International Children's Festival and the summertime Bard on the Beach Shakespeare extravaganza.

Waterfront Station
Address: Cordova St at the foot of Granville St, Downtown
Opened in 1915, this handsome, multicolumned heritage building was originally the old Canadian Pacific Railway station and the western terminus for transcontinental passenger trains. These days it houses an array of offices, cafes and shops, and acts as the main link between SkyTrain and SeaBus transit services (the West Coast Express commuter train also rolls into town here).

West 4th Avenue
Address: Kitsilano
A strollable smorgasbord of stores and restaurants may have your credit card whimpering for mercy after a couple of hours here. Since Kits is now a bit of a middle-class utopia, shops where you could once buy cheap groceries or grow-op paraphernalia are now more likely to be hawking designer yoga gear, hundred-dollar hiking socks and exotic (and unfamiliar) fruits from around the world.

Whytecliff Park
Address: 7100 block, Marine Dr, Greater Vancouver
Just west of Horseshoe Bay, this is an exceptional little park right on the water. Trails lead to vistas and a gazebo, from where you can watch the boat traffic in Burrard Inlet. The rocky beach is a great place to play, go for a swim or scamper over the large rocks protruding from the beach. The park is also popular with scuba divers.

Wreck Beach
Address: trail 6 from University Blvd, University of BC
From the intersection of NW Marine Dr and University Blvd, follow Trail 6 into the woods then head down the steps to the waterfront for Wreck Beach, a microcosm taste of what makes Vancouver unlike almost any other North American city. You'll find an undeveloped, log-strewn, 7.8km beach surrounded by a hulking forest that makes you feel worlds away from the city, yet downtown is only 20 minutes away.
Web: www.wreckbeach.org

Vancouver's music shops are some of the world's most interesting, and house great bargains. Downtown, high fashion rubs hips with high-street tack. Further abroad are great homewares, antiques, vintage clothing, outdoor gear and First Nations art.

Vancouverites are always willing to doff the bike shorts, throw on their best t-shirt and go out on the town. It's a city that loves to entertain. Sports and live music take precedence, with theatre very close behind and a healthy comedy scene to boot.

The city's beaches and parks are all good places to head for cycling, inline skating, swimming and running. There's good indoor climbing to be had and the skiing opportunities are particularly fine. There's also over 70 golf courses in the region, gyms aplenty, ice-skating rinks and tennis courts.

Boating
Rivers close to Vancouver offering whitewater rafting include the Fraser, Thompson and Chilliwack.

Diving
The rich and varied marine life in the local waters make scuba diving very rewarding. The top dive spots are the waters off the Pacific Rim National Park on Vancouver Island's western coast; in Georgia Strait between Vancouver Island's eastern coast and the mainland's Sunshine Coast, north of Vancouver; and in Queen Charlotte Strait off Vancouver's northeastern coast. If you're planning on spending more time underwater, the best time to go is in the winter (the water's cold anyway) when the plankton has decreased and visibility often exceeds 20m (66ft).

Fishing
If fishing is your thing, several spots around Vancouver Island vie for the title 'Salmon Capital of the World'. The Queen Charlotte Islands and the Fraser and Thompson Rivers are also prime casting sites. The waters off the western coast of Vancouver Island offer excellent whale-watching. Killer (orca) whales and Pacific gray whales run north in spring and south in autumn.

Snow sports
Just minutes away from downtown, the mountains north of Vancouver have some great downhill and cross-country skiing and snowboarding. Grouse Mountain is the closest to downtown and is known for night skiing. Other nearby resorts include Cypress Mountain (also featuring night skiing) and Mt Seymour. A little farther afield is the glossier Whistler, located 100km (62mi) north of Vancouver, where you can ski year-round.

Watersports
Long Beach in Vancouver Island's Pacific Rim National Park reputedly has the best waves in BC, though the water's very cold. You can swim at 11 beaches around Vancouver or at one of the city's aquatic centres.

Vancouver has something for every palate, from hotdogs to poached salmon. The city is close to the ocean and has great fresh seafood, and also draws on the fertile farms dotted up Fraser Valley for fresh food. Local wines from the Okanagan Valley add to the experience.

Vancouver has a wide array of accommodation options, with plenty of first-class, boutique, bed & breakfast and budget choices available. Among the most popular areas, and those where the options are widest, are downtown and the West End.

The quickest, cheapest way to the airport is by Vancouver Airporter bus from Pacific Central Station (30 minutes). You can also catch bus 98 B-Line from Burrard Station (35 minutes). A taxi takes 25 minutes.

The magnificent Pacific Central Station, off Main St, is the western terminus for VIA Rail. Amtrak trains also leave from this station, connecting Vancouver to Bellingham and Seattle with one train daily. There is also a bus station at Pacific Central Station, with Amtrak, Greyhound and other operators running services to Seattle and other US destinations, as well as cities in Eastern Canada.

You can drive from the USA and other parts of Canada to Vancouver; the major highways are the I-5 (joining with Hwy 99) from the USA, and the Trans-Canada Hwy (Hwy 1) joining with Hwy 99 from the east. It's possible to cycle to Vancouver, but bicycles aren't allowed on the freeway section of the Trans-Canada Hwy or the Upper Levels Hwy; alternative routes must be taken. BC Ferries operates a service in BC's coastal waters.

Air
Canada's second-busiest airport, Vancouver International Airport (YVR; tel: 604 207 7077; www.yvr.ca) is about 13km (8mi) south of the city on Sea Island in Richmond, and all the major carriers service it. There are two main terminals - international (including flights to the USA) and domestic - as well as a south terminal for seaplanes and smaller aircraft. Each of the main terminals has all the requisite facilities. The domestic terminal also has a medical clinic, dental clinic and pharmacy, while the international terminal has the goods and services tax (GST) refund office. A free, twice-hourly shuttle bus links the main terminals to the south terminal (which is too far to walk). In downtown Vancouver there is a seaplane terminal in Coal Harbour just west of Canada Place and a helicopter terminal near Waterfront Station.

The Vancouver Airporter (tel: 604 946 8866, 800 668 3141; www.yvrairporter.com) plies the route between Vancouver International Airport and the major downtown hotels from approximately 06:30 to 23:00. A one-way trip takes about 35 minutes, depending on traffic. Tickets can be purchased from the Airporter ticket office outside the main terminal and adjacent to the bus departure zone, from the driver or from the hotels. A cheaper way into the city is via TransLink. From the airport, take bus 424 to Airport Station, then transfer to bus 98-B-Line (Bay No 1) to Burrard SkyTrain station downtown; the service operates from 05:30 to 00:30. A metered taxi to central Vancouver takes about 25 minutes, depending on traffic.

Road
Buses to Canadian and US destinations originate at Pacific Central Station (tel: 800 661 8747; 1150 Station St; 05:00 - 24:00). The magnificent terminal has currency exchange booths, left-luggage lockers and an information desk. When making reservations, always ask for the direct or express bus. Advance tickets do not guarantee a seat. Greyhound Canada (tel: 800 661 8747; www.greyhound.ca) goes to points east and north in Canada, as well as Seattle. For further travel throughout the USA, contact Greyhound Lines (www.greyhound.com). Note that Greyhound does not go to Victoria. Discounts on standard one-way adult fares are given to ISIC cardholders, seniors, children and pairs traveling together. Purchase tickets at least a week in advance for the best prices. There are a number of other operators running long-distance services, including Pacific Coach Lines (tel: 604 662 8074, 800 6611725; www.pacificcoach.com) which does run to Victoria, Perimeter (tel: 604 266 5386, 877 317 7788; www .perimeterbus.com) and Quick Coach Lines (tel: 604 940 4428, 800 665 2122; www.quickcoach.com).

Rail
Trains chug into Pacific Central Station, which has currency exchange booths and luggage lockers, among other amenities. VIA Rail (tel: 888 842 7245; www.viarail.ca) runs only one service to/from Vancouver called the Canadian, which runs east through Kamloops, Jasper, Edmonton and Winnipeg en route to Toronto. Spectacular scenery and excellent facilities easily make this North America's greatest train ride. Stopovers are permitted, but you must re-reserve a seat for your onward journey. Fares vary wildly, but are cheaper if tickets are purchased at least one week in advance. Amtrak (tel: 800 872 7245; www.amtrak.com) runs the Cascades line daily between Vancouver and Seattle. In addition, Amtrak runs three buses a day from Vancouver to Seattle, where passengers can connect with Los Angeles- and Chicago-bound trains. The one-way fare is the same for the train or bus and it takes four hours. International passengers are responsible for securing all necessary documentation (ie passports and visas) prior to on-board customs and immigration procedures. Reservations are required.

Water
BC Ferries (tel: 250 386 3431, in British Columbia 888 223 3779; www.bcferries.com) travel to Vancouver Island, the Gulf Islands, Sunshine Coast and beyond. Vancouver's two ferry terminals are at Tsawwassen and Horseshoe Bay. Most ferries from Tsawwassen (38km/24mi south of downtown Vancouver) go to Swartz Bay (32km/20mi north of Victoria on Vancouver Island) and the Southern Gulf Islands. Ferries from Horseshoe Bay (21km/13mi northwest of downtown Vancouver) mostly depart for the Sunshine Coast and Nanaimo (97km/60mi northwest of Victoria). You can buy passenger-only tickets at the ferry terminals (no reservations accepted). You can also make vehicle reservations for a fee - definitely recommended if you're travelling on weekends or anytime in July or August. BC Ferries' Circlepac is a four-route pass that saves 15% as you loop from the mainland to Vancouver Island to the Sunshine Coast (or in the opposite direction). Pacific Coach provides a more costly option but it's less of a hassle. To reach the Tsawwassen terminal, catch southbound bus 601 at Burrard SkyTrain station to the Ladner Exchange, then take bus 620. To reach Horseshoe Bay, take northbound bus 257 or 250 from Georgia St near Granville.

TransLink includes the services of electric trolley buses and standard diesel buses, the fully computerised SkyTrain elevated light-rail system that runs from Waterfront Station to King George Station, SeaBus passenger ferries that zip back and forth across Burrard Inlet, and West Coast Express peak-time trains. Tickets are good for all services except the West Coast Express. Privately operated mini-ferries shuttle around False Creek.

Taxis are generally reliable and can be hailed at big hotels or by telephone. Traffic congestion is a big problem; avoid driving in peak times and watch out for parking restrictions. Cycling is a good way to get around town - there are several bike paths and lots of bike rental outlets. Walking's also a great option.

Road
You really don't need a car for sightseeing around town, but for visits throughout Greater Vancouver, a car makes life much simpler.

Be prepared for major congestion, especially during peak hours, as Vancouver doesn't have any expressways going through its core. The use of seat belts is compulsory throughout Canada, and motorcyclists must wear helmets. Drivers can turn right on a red light after first having made a full stop; drivers must stop for pedestrians at crosswalks. With few exceptions, you can legally drive in Canada as long as you have a valid driver's license issued by your home country. You may be required to show an international driving permit if your license isn't written in English (or French). Short-term US visitors can bring in their own vehicles without special permits, provided they have insurance. If you've rented a car in the USA and you are driving it into Canada, bring a copy of the rental agreement to save any possible hassle by border officials. On weekends and holidays, especially during summer, major land border crossings with the USA quickly become jammed. You can check border wait times online before leaving at www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/general/times/menu-e.html. Smaller, secondary US-Canada border crossings are usually not busy, but sometimes are so quiet that the customs officers have nothing better to do than tear your luggage apart.

Finding street parking downtown is a challenge with expensive meters, resident-only side street parking and merciless tow trucks. Aim for paid undercover carparks.

Car rental rates fluctuate wildly, so it's worth shopping around. Booking ahead usually ensures the best rates, with the airport often being cheaper than downtown. Keep in mind that, after adding insurance, taxes, excess kilometres and any other fees, you could be handed a pretty surprising bill. All the major agencies are represented at the airport.

Rail
The elevated SkyTrain light-rail system has two lines. The Expo Line runs from Waterfront Station downtown to King George Station in Surrey. The Millennium Line parallels it to Columbia Station in New Westminster, then circles back northeast through Burnaby and connects to Expo again at Broadway Station/Commercial Dr. SkyTrain operates from about 05:30 to 01:00 , every five to 10 minutes.

Riding
Vancouver has 16 cycling routes covering almost 130km (80mi). Two maps are available at various bicycle shops and bookstores: the Regional Vancouver Cycling Map by TransLink and Cycling in Vancouver (free) by the city transportation department's Bicycle Hotline (tel: 604 871 6070; www.city.vancouver.bc.ca /engsvcs/transport/cycling). The Vancouver Area Cycling Coalition (tel: 604 878 8222; www.vacc .bc.ca) and Cycling BC (tel: 604 737 3034; www .cycling.bc.ca) are also good resources.

Cyclistsmust wear helmets and stay off sidewalks. TransLink permits bicycles on most buses, SkyTrain and SeaBus, except during weekday peak hours (06:30 to 09:30 and 15:00). Bicycles are allowed on BC Ferries and Aquabus ferries.

Water
SeaBus Passenger ferries glide between Waterfront Station downtown and Lonsdale Quay in North Vancouver in a mere 12 minutes. SeaBus operates from around 06:00 to 12:30am, roughly every 15 to 30 minutes.

There are two mini-ferry companies servicing Vancouver. Aquabus (tel: 604 689 5858; www.aquabus.bc.ca) and False Creek Ferries (FCF; tel: 604 684 7781; www.granvilleislandferries .bc.ca) operate nifty mini-ferries that resemble bath-tub boats around False Creek from about 07:00 to 22:00, with a reduced schedule in winter. Both sail similar routes from Granville Island to Stamp's Landing to Yaletown or to Science World. Aquabus also runs between Granville Island and the south foot of Hornby St (this is the only route that also allows bicycles, at minimal extra cost). FCF go from Sunset Beach's Aquatic Centre to Vanier Park's museums or Granville Island.

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